Introduction
Review: The Metz 50 AF-1 flash for Nikon cameras. In short, it's a brilliant, full featured flash that will meet the requirements of those who primarily work with portable flashes. Although missing some features found in older and current generation Nikon Speedlights (i.e. the SB-700, SB-800, etc.), those who shoot with Nikon cameras should look to this flash as a viable tool in their toolbox. For those who don't normally shoot with portable flashes, there are alternatives which are smaller, cheaper, and more adept to occasional flash use.
Disclaimer: If any information seen in the following reviews may be wrong (especially those marked with (?)), please feel free to contact and correct me. I am not affiliated with or endorsed by any camera/accessory manufacturer and this review is purely my opinion and is not intended to harm or offend anyone. Photos in this review are from third-party sites and copyrighted to their respective copyright holders.
Full review after the jump...
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Review: Crumpler Singapore Slim
Introduction
Review: The Crumpler Singapore Slim camera strap. Ask any photographer what their next accessory purchase would be and many would say an new flash, or a couple of memory cards, or a battery grip for their DSLR. Although you will rarely hear "camera strap." Many photographers are usually happy with the ubiquitous branded strap with "Canon EOS" or "Nikon D300s" in bold lettering that comes free with their camera. However, many other photographers express disdain at either the small size of these straps, the discomfort usually associated with them, or the fact they are freely advertising their camera to the world. Enter the Crumpler Singapore Slim.
Disclaimer: If any information seen in the following reviews may be wrong (especially those marked with (?)), please feel free to contact and correct me. I am not affiliated with or endorsed by any camera/accessory manufacturer and this review is purely my opinion and is not intended to harm or offend anyone. Photos in this review are from third-party sites and copyrighted to their respective copyright holders.
Full review after the jump...
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If you like this, please share with your fellow photographers! Not only will this information be spread out to help more photographers, user feedback will improve the content posted to the website!
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Review: The Crumpler Singapore Slim camera strap. Ask any photographer what their next accessory purchase would be and many would say an new flash, or a couple of memory cards, or a battery grip for their DSLR. Although you will rarely hear "camera strap." Many photographers are usually happy with the ubiquitous branded strap with "Canon EOS" or "Nikon D300s" in bold lettering that comes free with their camera. However, many other photographers express disdain at either the small size of these straps, the discomfort usually associated with them, or the fact they are freely advertising their camera to the world. Enter the Crumpler Singapore Slim.
Disclaimer: If any information seen in the following reviews may be wrong (especially those marked with (?)), please feel free to contact and correct me. I am not affiliated with or endorsed by any camera/accessory manufacturer and this review is purely my opinion and is not intended to harm or offend anyone. Photos in this review are from third-party sites and copyrighted to their respective copyright holders.
Full review after the jump...
---------------------------------------------------------------
If you like this, please share with your fellow photographers! Not only will this information be spread out to help more photographers, user feedback will improve the content posted to the website!
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Huge Storm Over Belgium
Last night we had a huge storm over the Limburg region of Belgium. What better way thing to do than shoot some lightning photos. There were huge bolts just a couple of km from where we were and I took advantage of the opportunity. Here are the best samples of the shots:


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The shots were taken at f/10, 30 sec., ISO 400 with the *ist DS and DA 18-55mm AL
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The shots were taken at f/10, 30 sec., ISO 400 with the *ist DS and DA 18-55mm AL
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Review: Metz 50 AF-1 Flash (for Pentax)
Introduction
Review: The Metz 50 AF-1 flash for Pentax cameras. In short, it's a brilliant, full featured flash that will meet the requirements of those who primarily work with portable flashes. Although missing some features found in the current flash offerings from Pentax, those who shoot with Pentax cameras should look to this flash as a viable tool in their toolbox. For those who don't normally shoot with portable flashes, there are alternatives which are smaller, cheaper, and more adept to occasional flash use.
Disclaimer: If any information seen in the following reviews may be wrong (especially those marked with (?)), please feel free to contact and correct me. I am not affiliated with or endorsed by any camera/accessory manufacturer and this review is purely my opinion and is not intended to harm or offend anyone. Photos in this review are from third-party sites and copyrighted to their respective copyright holders.
Full review after the jump...
---------------------------------------------------------------
If you like this, please share with your fellow photographers! Not only will this information be spread out to help more photographers, user feedback will improve the content posted to the website!
Also check out:
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Review: The Metz 50 AF-1 flash for Pentax cameras. In short, it's a brilliant, full featured flash that will meet the requirements of those who primarily work with portable flashes. Although missing some features found in the current flash offerings from Pentax, those who shoot with Pentax cameras should look to this flash as a viable tool in their toolbox. For those who don't normally shoot with portable flashes, there are alternatives which are smaller, cheaper, and more adept to occasional flash use.
Disclaimer: If any information seen in the following reviews may be wrong (especially those marked with (?)), please feel free to contact and correct me. I am not affiliated with or endorsed by any camera/accessory manufacturer and this review is purely my opinion and is not intended to harm or offend anyone. Photos in this review are from third-party sites and copyrighted to their respective copyright holders.
Full review after the jump...
---------------------------------------------------------------
If you like this, please share with your fellow photographers! Not only will this information be spread out to help more photographers, user feedback will improve the content posted to the website!
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This is just too funny...
Continuous shooting mode has never been so fun, see for yourself (and it features a Pentax!):
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New Features of the Website
If you've been following the site closely, you may have seen some new changes!
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Firstly, new logo! I did another redesign of the logo for Andrei Seki photography. This was to make the logo more visible on watermarked images and to incorporate my background in graphic design to the logo. The original midnight blue and silver of the original logo is still kept in the new one so there is a nice transition between the two (and silver and midnight blue looks awesome together).
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Now there is a navigation bar on the top of the site which links to various pages of the site such as my portfolio (still being worked on as new photos are uploaded to Flickr), contact information, and:
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Now on the navigation bar above is a section dedicated to camera gear reviews. Click on the link to go to a list of the newest reviews of camera gear.
Currently, there is one review of the Metz 50 AF-1 flash but expect more as new gear is added into the arsenal of camera gear used at Andrei Seki Photography!
Disclaimer: I am not affiliated with or endorsed by any camera/accessory manufacturer and the reviews on this website are purely my opinion and is not intended to harm or offend anyone.
---------------------------------------------------------------
If you like this, please share with your fellow photographers! Not only will this information be spread out to help more photographers, user feedback will improve the content posted to the website!
Also check out:
My DeviantArt Page
My Flickr Page
My Facebook Page
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Firstly, new logo! I did another redesign of the logo for Andrei Seki photography. This was to make the logo more visible on watermarked images and to incorporate my background in graphic design to the logo. The original midnight blue and silver of the original logo is still kept in the new one so there is a nice transition between the two (and silver and midnight blue looks awesome together).
---------------------------------------------------------------
Now there is a navigation bar on the top of the site which links to various pages of the site such as my portfolio (still being worked on as new photos are uploaded to Flickr), contact information, and:
---------------------------------------------------------------
Now on the navigation bar above is a section dedicated to camera gear reviews. Click on the link to go to a list of the newest reviews of camera gear.
Currently, there is one review of the Metz 50 AF-1 flash but expect more as new gear is added into the arsenal of camera gear used at Andrei Seki Photography!
Disclaimer: I am not affiliated with or endorsed by any camera/accessory manufacturer and the reviews on this website are purely my opinion and is not intended to harm or offend anyone.
---------------------------------------------------------------
If you like this, please share with your fellow photographers! Not only will this information be spread out to help more photographers, user feedback will improve the content posted to the website!
Also check out:
My DeviantArt Page
My Flickr Page
My Facebook Page
How Was It Done? Yearbook (The Ultimate Strobist Test?) Part 1
Click here to read the introduction
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Note: Any writing in italics will refer to a general note about photography and are the main points you need to know. So if time is short, just read these tips to avoid the lengthy background story.
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So, despite the stress of high school coming to an end, I (and fellow students) still had time to create unique photos for our yearbook. First up was a good friend of mine, Chris, who actually got this yearbook shoot started.
Chris came up with the idea of being a "scientist/chemist" in his shoot.
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Note: For portraits (or ay other photo assignment), try to get the client involved in the planning phase. In this case, I left my "clients" to come up with their own ideas/themes for their individual photoshoot. Not only does this allow the client to be part of the photographic process (other than modelling), this makes sure the client gets what he/she wants in terms of idea/theme. What you will do as a photographer in this phase is plan how to execute the shoot and give advice/changes.
Here is also the chance to get some logistic problems solved. Try to get your client involved in getting materials/props for the shoot. This will ensure less problems such as giving a heavy metal guitarist an acoustic guitar because you misunderstood what "guitar" he meant.
Lastly, having your client work with you during the planning phase can break any tension when you finally do the shoot. This can help you get to know the client and build a good rapport with them which will translate to a smoother and more fun shoot later on.
Oh, and getting the client to come up with ideas means less work for you, allowing you to focus on the photographic aspects of the shoot!
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So Chris's shoot was going to be an environmental portrait, in a chemistry lab at school. This meant that I would have to work WITH the lighting currently available. This brings me to my next note:
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Note: For environmental portraits, if possible, scout the location before the shoot. See what kind of existing ambient light you will be working with and try some lighting setups prior to the actual shoot. Carry a notepad and take notes about the existing light, setups you plan to do, and any limitations/problems of the location (for example, high winds preventing the use of an umbrella! yup, I found that out the hard way).
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Luckily for me, Chris had done his work and procured materials for the shoot and even planned out the time and location! All that was left for me was to shoot and edit!
Initially, I had planned for a high-key, "clean," environment. One problem, fluorescent lights typical of laboratories plus a huge window letting in daylight. This was going to be a white balance nightmare. To counteract this, I turned off the fluorescent lights and opted to use the window as the main light source and use a flash (which is balanced for daylight as well) as a fill light.
So with the window to camera left, that would provide the main light. In order to fill in the shadows, I used a flash (Metz 50 AF-1) at camera right triggered via optical slave. I used a bounce card to diffuse the light,but this didn't diffuse it as much as I wanted to and as a result, there were harsh shadows in the background.
So I opted for a different approach. Noticing my lack of lightstand (initially the flash was placed on top of a shelf), I had to use what was available. I placed the flash on the table in front of where Chris was standing (where all of the chemistry equipment lay), and aimed it upwards toward him. I closed the sun blinds of the window to eliminate the ambient light and set the flash to a low setting for a low-key effect. No background to worry about. I wanted an "evil scientist" look to the photo. Although upward facing light is not the most flattering, who needs flattering when it comes to an evil scientist?
So below is the final result.
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Moral(s) of the story:
-get your client involved in all phases of the shoot from planning to post processing
-try to scout the location beforehand
-bring a lightstand when doing strobist work, even a tabletop tripod will make a difference
-try alternative setups, these may turn out to be the winning shots!
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If you like this, please share with your fellow photographers! Not only will this information be spread out to help more photographers, user feedback will improve the content posted to the website!
Also check out:
My DeviantArt Page
My Flickr Page
My Facebook Page
---------------------------------------------------------------
Note: Any writing in italics will refer to a general note about photography and are the main points you need to know. So if time is short, just read these tips to avoid the lengthy background story.
---------------------------------------------------------------
So, despite the stress of high school coming to an end, I (and fellow students) still had time to create unique photos for our yearbook. First up was a good friend of mine, Chris, who actually got this yearbook shoot started.
Chris came up with the idea of being a "scientist/chemist" in his shoot.
---------------------------------------------------------------
Note: For portraits (or ay other photo assignment), try to get the client involved in the planning phase. In this case, I left my "clients" to come up with their own ideas/themes for their individual photoshoot. Not only does this allow the client to be part of the photographic process (other than modelling), this makes sure the client gets what he/she wants in terms of idea/theme. What you will do as a photographer in this phase is plan how to execute the shoot and give advice/changes.
Here is also the chance to get some logistic problems solved. Try to get your client involved in getting materials/props for the shoot. This will ensure less problems such as giving a heavy metal guitarist an acoustic guitar because you misunderstood what "guitar" he meant.
Lastly, having your client work with you during the planning phase can break any tension when you finally do the shoot. This can help you get to know the client and build a good rapport with them which will translate to a smoother and more fun shoot later on.
Oh, and getting the client to come up with ideas means less work for you, allowing you to focus on the photographic aspects of the shoot!
---------------------------------------------------------------
So Chris's shoot was going to be an environmental portrait, in a chemistry lab at school. This meant that I would have to work WITH the lighting currently available. This brings me to my next note:
---------------------------------------------------------------
Note: For environmental portraits, if possible, scout the location before the shoot. See what kind of existing ambient light you will be working with and try some lighting setups prior to the actual shoot. Carry a notepad and take notes about the existing light, setups you plan to do, and any limitations/problems of the location (for example, high winds preventing the use of an umbrella! yup, I found that out the hard way).
---------------------------------------------------------------
Luckily for me, Chris had done his work and procured materials for the shoot and even planned out the time and location! All that was left for me was to shoot and edit!
Initially, I had planned for a high-key, "clean," environment. One problem, fluorescent lights typical of laboratories plus a huge window letting in daylight. This was going to be a white balance nightmare. To counteract this, I turned off the fluorescent lights and opted to use the window as the main light source and use a flash (which is balanced for daylight as well) as a fill light.
So with the window to camera left, that would provide the main light. In order to fill in the shadows, I used a flash (Metz 50 AF-1) at camera right triggered via optical slave. I used a bounce card to diffuse the light,but this didn't diffuse it as much as I wanted to and as a result, there were harsh shadows in the background.
So I opted for a different approach. Noticing my lack of lightstand (initially the flash was placed on top of a shelf), I had to use what was available. I placed the flash on the table in front of where Chris was standing (where all of the chemistry equipment lay), and aimed it upwards toward him. I closed the sun blinds of the window to eliminate the ambient light and set the flash to a low setting for a low-key effect. No background to worry about. I wanted an "evil scientist" look to the photo. Although upward facing light is not the most flattering, who needs flattering when it comes to an evil scientist?
So below is the final result.
The flash created the evil look i wanted and his smile just makes it much better! Muahahaha! I used the chemistry equipment to create a compositional element to highlight the theme of the photo. As for editing, I used the split toning feature of Adobe Lightroom to turn the highlights green to create an evil atmosphere.
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Moral(s) of the story:
-get your client involved in all phases of the shoot from planning to post processing
-try to scout the location beforehand
-bring a lightstand when doing strobist work, even a tabletop tripod will make a difference
-try alternative setups, these may turn out to be the winning shots!
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So that's all for this post. I choose not to put my settings here because this will all differ according to your equipment combination, lighting setup, etc.
To contact me, Andrei Seki Photography can be reached via the email form in the "Contact Information" tab above or via these websites (in case you are a member of any):
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Also check out:
My DeviantArt Page
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My Facebook Page
Long Exposure and Astrophotography
Everyone needs something new to do, especially photographers (and other creative fields). So I decided to go out last night and do some long exposure/astrophotography photos. Some results below.
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If you like this, please share with your fellow photographers! Not only will this information be spread out to help more photographers, user feedback will improve the content posted to the website!
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An Apology
Hi everyone,
You may have noticed a lack of updates during the last month. This was because of IB Exams this last month, but they are DONE now!!! That's right, I'm finally done with high school and moving on to university (hopefully)! So sorry to the readers if you have been expecting some updates but the workload was just too much to take care of the blog. So expect some new updates soon!
In case there is some time where no updates are posted, you can also check out:
My DeviantArt Page
My Flickr Page
My Facebook Page
These pages are usually updated much more frequently (especially the Flickr page as I have found a way to link Lightroom to Flickr!)
And lastly, here's a recent shot of my new HDR revival (strangely into HDR once again):

Stay tuned for updates!
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If you like this, please share with your fellow photographers! Not only will this information be spread out to help more photographers, user feedback will improve the content posted to the website!
Also check out:
My DeviantArt Page
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My Facebook Page
You may have noticed a lack of updates during the last month. This was because of IB Exams this last month, but they are DONE now!!! That's right, I'm finally done with high school and moving on to university (hopefully)! So sorry to the readers if you have been expecting some updates but the workload was just too much to take care of the blog. So expect some new updates soon!
In case there is some time where no updates are posted, you can also check out:
My DeviantArt Page
My Flickr Page
My Facebook Page
These pages are usually updated much more frequently (especially the Flickr page as I have found a way to link Lightroom to Flickr!)
And lastly, here's a recent shot of my new HDR revival (strangely into HDR once again):
Stay tuned for updates!
---------------------------------------------------------------
If you like this, please share with your fellow photographers! Not only will this information be spread out to help more photographers, user feedback will improve the content posted to the website!
Also check out:
My DeviantArt Page
My Flickr Page
My Facebook Page
How Was It Done? Yearbook (The Ultimate Strobist Test?) Introduction
It's nearing the end. High school is nearly over. Exams and then university is just around the corner. And of course, there's the yearbook. So what happens if you are the one of the few students who is an active photographer with camera gear built up from savings and Christmas gifts?
"Hey, I was just wondering if would take a picture of me, for the yearbook? I have this idea..."
And that's where it started.
After one shoot, it became two, and then several bookings followed after that. I knew this was to be a busy week.So over the next few days, weeks, months (probably), I will reveal the secrets behind each of the photoshoots I did in a new set of "How Was It Done?" articles.
So now, a primer.
Lets go over my gear first. I shoot with a Pentax *ist DS, the kit 18-55 f/3.5-5.6 lens, and the Tamron 70-300 f/4-5.6 lens. For the strobist gear, I have a Metz 50 AF-1, Cactus V4 flash triggers, an umbrella (and bracket), and a bunch of DIY bounce cards, snoots, etc. I'm proof that its possible to make awesome photos despite the gear you shoot with. (Softbox made from a pie box and some printer paper, anyone?)
If you haven't already done so, visit the Strobist blog to get some heads up info on shooting with manual, off camera flash as the yearbook shoots which i did were primarily strobist style. Additionally, visit DIYPhotography.net to learn about some DIY strobist gear you could make with just a few bits of cardboard and lots of duct tape.
This yearbook was my first set of large-scale strobist shoots. The only other strobist shoot i had done was the commercial type photo of a Remy Martin VSOP Cognac bottle. Additionally, this was a chance for me to build a portrait portfolio without having to pay for models, and subsequently meant I didnt make any money off of it either. But this is a critical part of photography, building a portfolio, especially for portraits. Start with some close friends and work your way up. Soon, you may even get some paying clients!
As a well practiced photographer, i tend to be very technical, so in order to understand the lingo, make sure to brush up on some key photographic terms (such as aperture, f-stop, shutter speed, ISO, etc.). I will be writing the following articles as if i was talking to another well-practiced photographer.
The first behind the scenes of the photoshoots will be coming up soon. So stay tuned...
---------------------------------------------------------------
If you like this, please share with your fellow photographers! Not only will this information be spread out to help more photographers, user feedback will improve the content posted to the website!
Also check out:
My DeviantArt Page
My Flickr Page
My Facebook Page
"Hey, I was just wondering if would take a picture of me, for the yearbook? I have this idea..."
And that's where it started.
After one shoot, it became two, and then several bookings followed after that. I knew this was to be a busy week.So over the next few days, weeks, months (probably), I will reveal the secrets behind each of the photoshoots I did in a new set of "How Was It Done?" articles.
So now, a primer.
Lets go over my gear first. I shoot with a Pentax *ist DS, the kit 18-55 f/3.5-5.6 lens, and the Tamron 70-300 f/4-5.6 lens. For the strobist gear, I have a Metz 50 AF-1, Cactus V4 flash triggers, an umbrella (and bracket), and a bunch of DIY bounce cards, snoots, etc. I'm proof that its possible to make awesome photos despite the gear you shoot with. (Softbox made from a pie box and some printer paper, anyone?)
If you haven't already done so, visit the Strobist blog to get some heads up info on shooting with manual, off camera flash as the yearbook shoots which i did were primarily strobist style. Additionally, visit DIYPhotography.net to learn about some DIY strobist gear you could make with just a few bits of cardboard and lots of duct tape.
This yearbook was my first set of large-scale strobist shoots. The only other strobist shoot i had done was the commercial type photo of a Remy Martin VSOP Cognac bottle. Additionally, this was a chance for me to build a portrait portfolio without having to pay for models, and subsequently meant I didnt make any money off of it either. But this is a critical part of photography, building a portfolio, especially for portraits. Start with some close friends and work your way up. Soon, you may even get some paying clients!
As a well practiced photographer, i tend to be very technical, so in order to understand the lingo, make sure to brush up on some key photographic terms (such as aperture, f-stop, shutter speed, ISO, etc.). I will be writing the following articles as if i was talking to another well-practiced photographer.
The first behind the scenes of the photoshoots will be coming up soon. So stay tuned...
---------------------------------------------------------------
If you like this, please share with your fellow photographers! Not only will this information be spread out to help more photographers, user feedback will improve the content posted to the website!
Also check out:
My DeviantArt Page
My Flickr Page
My Facebook Page
How Was It Done? HDR Trains
It's one of the main methods of inter-country travel in Europe. In the United States, they're diesel burning goliaths that pull freight from state to state. In China, they are beating world records, running from province to province in ever lessening times. They are trains and to a photographer, they are a perfect subject to photograph in HDR.
The following photos were taken at Maastricht Central Station which is a fairly busy train station at the heart of the Limburg region.
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So, how was it done? Firstly, this photo is an HDR photo. HDR stands for High Dynamic Range, which essentially increases the amount of dynamic range that can be put in an image. What is dynamic range? Well, it is the range from bright light (highlights) to dark ones (shadows). A camera's sensor has much less range than the human eye (or even film) so a method called local tone mapping is employed to blend the light, dark, and midtones of several photos (each differently exposed) into one photo. This can be done one of two ways, dedicated HDR software, or tone blending with Photoshop (or similar software). I personally use Photomatix software for HDR.
This photo is an HDR composite of three photos, one underexposed by 2 stops, one properly exposed, and one 2 stops overexposed. This can be done with the "bracketing" feature of your camera or by manually changing the exposure of each.
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Note: Using this technique in a busy scene may result in some strange artifacts as objects move around in the scene. This can be remedied with a different technique of HDR. This involves taking one RAW photo and creating three new photos from that RAW file, one over, under, and properly exposed. Finally, merge these photos with your software. This may introduce some image noise as you push a properly exposed image too high or low.
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So now the image itself. The image was taken with a Pentax *ist DS with the 18-55mm kit lens. This is my primary setup as it is lightweight and the focal length range is flexible. I shot in Aperture Priority (Av, or A) so I could control the aperture and let the camera do the rest. The base exposure (the middle exposure) was at f/4, 1/10 sec., ISO-400, at 28mm. The camera bracketing took care of the 2 stop under/overexposure.
The HDR was created by merging the three photos in Photomatix and lastly the resulting HDR TIFF file was edited in Adobe Photoshop Lightroom. HDR is a very subjective style of photography. Since there are so many different settings, the best way to get a good HDR is to experiment with all the different sliders and settings until you arrive at a photo you like!
There's a catch. HDR works best with RAW files. RAW files inherently have more data than JPEGs (which have been compressed). The above shot was made with three JPEGs. Below is a shot made with three RAW files:

Notice the difference? Photomatix was able to extract more detail from the RAW files and hence you get a richer, more detailed HDR with less noise artifacts. Look at the photo of the NS VIRM (the yellow train), see that weird spot on the window? That's a compression artifact from developing an HDR photo from JPEGs. Of course this is not a fair test (different subjects/conditions/etc.) but believe me, if you're not shooting RAW yet, you're missing out on the capabilities of your camera.
In terms of composition, what do you see? Yup, with images like these, I like to use wide-angle lenses and strange angles. Of course this is subject dependent, but with trains, I want to create this image of raw power and using extreme angles gives you a bold, powerful result. Just look at portraits of CEOs, low angles are almost always key to demonstrate authority. Below is an example of using a telephoto lens (which tends to compress a photo) and a standing position:

Because the train is decommissioned, I chose to use a "weaker" angle. Additionally, this is the type of subjects I like to photograph in HDR. HDR tends to bring out the dirt and grime (details!) in a subject and this shot is a perfect example. This is why HDR is suited to buildings, vehicles, etc. and not [usually] for portraits, animals, etc.
So the images above are what came out as the final results! If you need any help understanding some of the terms here, would like to comment or suggest new features, or add your own personal thoughts, comment or contact me!
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The following photos were taken at Maastricht Central Station which is a fairly busy train station at the heart of the Limburg region.
So, how was it done? Firstly, this photo is an HDR photo. HDR stands for High Dynamic Range, which essentially increases the amount of dynamic range that can be put in an image. What is dynamic range? Well, it is the range from bright light (highlights) to dark ones (shadows). A camera's sensor has much less range than the human eye (or even film) so a method called local tone mapping is employed to blend the light, dark, and midtones of several photos (each differently exposed) into one photo. This can be done one of two ways, dedicated HDR software, or tone blending with Photoshop (or similar software). I personally use Photomatix software for HDR.
This photo is an HDR composite of three photos, one underexposed by 2 stops, one properly exposed, and one 2 stops overexposed. This can be done with the "bracketing" feature of your camera or by manually changing the exposure of each.
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Note: Using this technique in a busy scene may result in some strange artifacts as objects move around in the scene. This can be remedied with a different technique of HDR. This involves taking one RAW photo and creating three new photos from that RAW file, one over, under, and properly exposed. Finally, merge these photos with your software. This may introduce some image noise as you push a properly exposed image too high or low.
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So now the image itself. The image was taken with a Pentax *ist DS with the 18-55mm kit lens. This is my primary setup as it is lightweight and the focal length range is flexible. I shot in Aperture Priority (Av, or A) so I could control the aperture and let the camera do the rest. The base exposure (the middle exposure) was at f/4, 1/10 sec., ISO-400, at 28mm. The camera bracketing took care of the 2 stop under/overexposure.
The HDR was created by merging the three photos in Photomatix and lastly the resulting HDR TIFF file was edited in Adobe Photoshop Lightroom. HDR is a very subjective style of photography. Since there are so many different settings, the best way to get a good HDR is to experiment with all the different sliders and settings until you arrive at a photo you like!
There's a catch. HDR works best with RAW files. RAW files inherently have more data than JPEGs (which have been compressed). The above shot was made with three JPEGs. Below is a shot made with three RAW files:
Notice the difference? Photomatix was able to extract more detail from the RAW files and hence you get a richer, more detailed HDR with less noise artifacts. Look at the photo of the NS VIRM (the yellow train), see that weird spot on the window? That's a compression artifact from developing an HDR photo from JPEGs. Of course this is not a fair test (different subjects/conditions/etc.) but believe me, if you're not shooting RAW yet, you're missing out on the capabilities of your camera.
In terms of composition, what do you see? Yup, with images like these, I like to use wide-angle lenses and strange angles. Of course this is subject dependent, but with trains, I want to create this image of raw power and using extreme angles gives you a bold, powerful result. Just look at portraits of CEOs, low angles are almost always key to demonstrate authority. Below is an example of using a telephoto lens (which tends to compress a photo) and a standing position:
Because the train is decommissioned, I chose to use a "weaker" angle. Additionally, this is the type of subjects I like to photograph in HDR. HDR tends to bring out the dirt and grime (details!) in a subject and this shot is a perfect example. This is why HDR is suited to buildings, vehicles, etc. and not [usually] for portraits, animals, etc.
So the images above are what came out as the final results! If you need any help understanding some of the terms here, would like to comment or suggest new features, or add your own personal thoughts, comment or contact me!
---------------------------------------------------------------
If you like this, please share with your fellow photographers! Not only will this information be spread out to help more photographers, user feedback will improve the content posted to the website!
Also check out:
My DeviantArt Page
My Flickr Page
My Facebook Page
New Feature of Metz Flashes for Pentax!
Just got word of a new firmware update for Pentax mounted Metz flashes (so far i know the 48 AF-1, 50 AF-1, 58 AF-1 & 2) that allows for optical servo mode with pre-flash suppression. In other words, your P-TTL pop up flash can now work as a trigger.
Ok, ok, i know that Pentax bodies (the newer ones) already support wireless flash with P-TTL control, but for us *ist users (we are becoming a rare species) it means optical slave for all of us. Additionally, the servo mode is full manual, so under/overexposure is your own fault, not the camera's anymore. :) More control = more creativity anyways.
So head on over to the Metz website, break out your USB cables and let the updating begin!
Metz Flash Units: Firmware Downloads
Ok, so now that you've updated, to enable this mode, cycle (using +/- buttons) through the options till you reach SL (stands for "slave"). Now press the + button until you see "M" (manual) and beneath that, "SERVO". Now set your flash power, pop up your DSLR's flash and shoot away!
But (yes there is a "but"), optical slaves are line of sight only so therefore range is limited by current optical laws. And secondly, the flash will fire when other flashes in the vicinity (including non-Pentax) fire. Here is when radio slaves (such as the Cactus V4 or new V5's) have an advantage. But this means that even your little point and shoot can become a studio camera too! (tested and confirmed with a Sony DSC P&S)
And you can have some fun with other people's pictures... (imagine the look on their faces when all their pics come out white!)
Also check out:
My DeviantArt Page
My Flickr Page
My Facebook Page
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If you like this, please share with your fellow photographers! Not only will this information be spread out to help more photographers, user feedback will improve the content posted to the website!
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Ok, ok, i know that Pentax bodies (the newer ones) already support wireless flash with P-TTL control, but for us *ist users (we are becoming a rare species) it means optical slave for all of us. Additionally, the servo mode is full manual, so under/overexposure is your own fault, not the camera's anymore. :) More control = more creativity anyways.
So head on over to the Metz website, break out your USB cables and let the updating begin!
Metz Flash Units: Firmware Downloads
Ok, so now that you've updated, to enable this mode, cycle (using +/- buttons) through the options till you reach SL (stands for "slave"). Now press the + button until you see "M" (manual) and beneath that, "SERVO". Now set your flash power, pop up your DSLR's flash and shoot away!
But (yes there is a "but"), optical slaves are line of sight only so therefore range is limited by current optical laws. And secondly, the flash will fire when other flashes in the vicinity (including non-Pentax) fire. Here is when radio slaves (such as the Cactus V4 or new V5's) have an advantage. But this means that even your little point and shoot can become a studio camera too! (tested and confirmed with a Sony DSC P&S)
And you can have some fun with other people's pictures... (imagine the look on their faces when all their pics come out white!)
Also check out:
My DeviantArt Page
My Flickr Page
My Facebook Page
---------------------------------------------------------------
If you like this, please share with your fellow photographers! Not only will this information be spread out to help more photographers, user feedback will improve the content posted to the website!
Also check out:
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Opening the 2011 Portfolio
Finally! I had the inspiration (and time) to take a photo! This time it was of a Remy Martin VSOP Champagne Cognac in a strobist style shoot (one wireless Metz 50 AF-1 flash).
The setup consisted of a pane of glass from a china cabinet, some t-shirts, a lamp, and most importantly, a Metz 50 AF-1 flash triggered with a Cactus V4 wireless trigger.
I think its a great way to start my portfolio for 2011! If only Remy Martin would hire me to do photos for them...[/dream]
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The setup consisted of a pane of glass from a china cabinet, some t-shirts, a lamp, and most importantly, a Metz 50 AF-1 flash triggered with a Cactus V4 wireless trigger.
I think its a great way to start my portfolio for 2011! If only Remy Martin would hire me to do photos for them...[/dream]
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2011 Portfolio, What a Great Start...
You may be able to sense my sarcasm enthusiasm in that title. Tomorrow is February 1st. That means that I have gone 1 month without taking a single photo to add to my portfolio despite the fact that I purchased a new Metz 50 AF-1 flash and a set of wireless triggers.
Well, thats the life of a photographer who is also an IBvictim student (or the other way around i suppose).
Maybe the weather here in the Netherlands will warm up soon so i can get out and start shooting. Or maybe I'll have my head buried in my Math HL book until May.
Either way...
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Well, thats the life of a photographer who is also an IB
Maybe the weather here in the Netherlands will warm up soon so i can get out and start shooting. Or maybe I'll have my head buried in my Math HL book until May.
Either way...
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Welcome to the Site!
Hi everyone,
Finally got a blog going (in association with Facebook, DeviantArt, and Flickr) to expand the ways that everyone can get updates on my photography.
Websites are:
DeviantArt
Facebook
Flickr
Hope you enjoy the new blog and my websites!
Cheers,
Andrei
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If you like this, please share with your fellow photographers! Not only will this information be spread out to help more photographers, user feedback will improve the content posted to the website!
Also check out:
My DeviantArt Page
My Flickr Page
My Facebook Page
Finally got a blog going (in association with Facebook, DeviantArt, and Flickr) to expand the ways that everyone can get updates on my photography.
Websites are:
DeviantArt
Flickr
Hope you enjoy the new blog and my websites!
Cheers,
Andrei
---------------------------------------------------------------
If you like this, please share with your fellow photographers! Not only will this information be spread out to help more photographers, user feedback will improve the content posted to the website!
Also check out:
My DeviantArt Page
My Flickr Page
My Facebook Page
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